Designing a custom ring is not as difficult as you may think. Start by picturing the two parts of an engagement ring — the stones and setting — and begin sketching or writing down specifics. Decide the materials you want in your ring and you are well on your way to the ring you envisioned.

The Stones

A first step is deciding what types of stones will be in the ring, how many there will be, and their relative sizes. Diamonds are most common, but your engagement ring can have other gemstones as well. Rubies, pearls, emeralds, and sapphires can all add special meaning.

Some questions to consider when choosing stones: Do you want a large, single solitaire or a center stone surrounded by smaller stones? If cost is an issue, which matters more: how large the stones are or their quality? Do you want diamonds only, a combination of diamonds and other gems, or no diamonds at all? How will they be arranged? Plan the appearance by sketching how the stones will be configured and labeling them by type.

The Setting

You can choose from several types of metal and quality. Each has unique features and appearance. White or yellow gold (14 or 18 carat) are common choices, as is platinum. Titanium is also a viable choice. If you are not already familiar with the differences in appearance and quality, take a trip to the mall or nearest jewelry store. Notice the finish of each and how it catches the light.

Other features to consider are the size and shape of the setting. It should reflect the bride’s personal style. Also consider hand size and balance. A large ring can overwhelm a small hand. Conversely, a large hand may diminish a small ring.

Assuring Quality

It pays to know something about quality before ordering a custom ring (or any piece of fine jewelry, for that matter). Become familiar with the 4 C’s of diamond quality: carat, color, clarity, and cut. Price should depend on the quality of each attribute. Unless you know the jeweler, do not take his word on these. Independent laboratories, such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA, gia.edu), grade individual diamonds. Yours should be certified in writing and come with a certificate detailing it’s unique features and quality ratings. Most online retailers that provide custom service list diamond inventory online along with scanned copies of the certificates, so you know exactly what you will be getting.

Where to Shop

Now that you know exactly what you want, where do you shop? Chances are a local jeweler can make the custom ring. But, local is not your only choice. Several online jewelry stores offer custom rings and ship them worldwide. Some simply assemble and ship the ring from a variety of inventoried settings and stones. Others take a more personalized approach by making a sketch or mold based on pictures or a detailed description of what you have in mind. They then create the ring based on the approved design. Search “custom engagement rings” or “design your own engagement ring” to find online vendors.

There you have it. How to design the engagement ring of your dreams!

By Bobette Kyle-Wagner and Bobbi Linkemer

Before we get started, can I be honest with you? The best way to buy her an engagement ring she’ll love is to let her pick it out herself. She’ll wear this ring every day. It must feel good on her finger and it must suit her lifestyle. Sometimes it takes trying on many, many diamond shapes and setting styles to determine which ring is truly “best.”

But you still want to go it alone, don’t you? Maybe because you want to surprise her with the engagement ring, or because you don’t want her to be involved with pricing and payment issues. That’s fine–if you put some thought into it you can buy an engagement ring that she’ll love almost as much as she loves you.

Number 1: Pay Attention!

Paying attention to her jewelry likes and dislikes is the first big step towards finding her the perfect engagement ring:

What metal color does she wear now? Most women have a definite preference.

If she loves white gold or platinum, don’t even look at a diamond or other stone mounted in a yellow gold ring setting.

What style of jewelry does she wear now? Is it contemporary-looking, with bold styling? Does she prefer vintage looking rings? Or would you say that the jewelry she wears is classic, resembling those timeless pieces that never go out of style?

The best indication of her tastes is the jewelry she wears all the time, not items she only wears occasionally, because it’s the full-timers that she’s most comfortable with.

Number 2: Has She Hinted at her Likes and Dislikes?
Has she ever mentioned her favorite jewelry styles or pointed out engagement rings when you’re shopping together? If not, take her shopping. It isn’t difficult to steer yourselves towards the jewelry stores. If you want to be subtle, say you’re looking for a new watch, but be sure to pause at the engagement ring counters.

Maybe she has a friend who recently became engaged. Does she like her friend’s engagement ring? Why or why not?

Does she like diamonds? Some women don’t. Sapphires and rubies are both durable gemstones that are often set into engagement rings for women who don’t like to wear diamonds.

Number 3: What Looks Best on Her Hands?
An elongated diamond, such as a marquise or oval, can make short fingers look more sleek–but be careful not to overdo the look or it could have the opposite effect.

Wide bands usually make fingers appear even shorter than they are, so think proportional:

Women with long fingers can easily wear bold ring styles.
# A setting that’s extremely delicate could get lost on large hands, over-emphasizing their size and making the ring look smaller.

Number 4: Choose the Right Shape & Setting
Round diamonds are the number one shape chosen by brides, but maybe not your bride. She might prefer an elongated marquise, oval or pear-shaped stone, or an square or emerald cut diamond. Fancier shapes, such as hearts, are another option.

Do you think she’d like a solitaire diamond, set alone in a band, or would she prefer a cluster of stones? Her current jewelry can give you clues about her preferences.

Number 5: Consider her Lifestyle
How will the ring fit in with her lifestyle? Does she work in a profession where fussy jewelry would look out of place? Even if she doesn’t, remember that a pointed gem with high prongs could snag clothing (and people) and is harder to keep clean. Save that type of ring for gifts that will be worn on special occasions, not every day.

Number 6: What’s her Ring Size?
Does she have rings that she wears on her engagement finger? Maybe a friend or family member could get hold of one of them long enough for you to have it sized. Of course, you’ll have to swear the messenger to secrecy.

Number 7: Consider a Loose Diamond
If you think you know which shape she loves, buy a loose diamond to show her when you ask the big question. The two of you can shop together later for the perfect engagement ring setting.

Now that you have a better feel for the style of ring she might prefer, it’s time to consider the diamonds that will go into it. Start with the Four C’s, then take some time to browse other topics in Diamond Basics and Engagement Ring Resources. If she’s not into diamonds, start with the articles in Colored Gemstones.

From Carly Wickell